Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons

It is a rarity to find superb craftmanship, where you sincerely feel the artist’s spirit and feel a sense authenticity. Derrick R. Cruz, the mastermind behind the jewelry/accessory line Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons hand-crafts some of the most beautiful accessories, working with a variety of unconventional materials. There aren’t many jewelry designers who would think to create necklaces and bracelets out horse hair, and recycled piano keys, and that is precisely why Cruz is a cut above the rest. Though he creates jewelry (pieces that can be work a multitude of ways), he does not pigeon-hold himself to just that. His line extends to include ashtrays, pins, and even a razor made out of mammoth razor and silver. Not only are the designs striking, but the materials used are precious and quite nostalgic.

There is definitely a certain charm to Black Sheep and Prodigal sons. In some ways, the line cannot even be categorized because to say that they are just accessories is too insignificant. They epitomize the art of craftsmanship and are just visually stunning. They are pieces that cannot just simply sit along side some of other accessories because they are in a realm of their own. The workmanship is superb and Cruz includes small details here and there, giving each piece character.



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Odyn Vovk AW2010 preview

Austin Sherbanenko of Odyn Vovk brewed a very smart and well thought out collection that made sense from beginning to end. This seasons’s collection was inspired by the deserts of Abu Dabi/Dubai, which was brilliantly reflected in his color palate. The collection was seamlessly cohesive, but managed to break up the collection into sub-categories and color stories that easily lent themselves to one another. The color palatte including 4 prominent hues: rust, bone, black and army green. They all worked in unison and complimented each other.

The cohesiveness did not just end at the color choices. Sherbanenko strung together various motifs in the actual construction of the garments that added character and established a strong identity. He explored the idea of deconstruction to give his garments a rustic, worn in look.

Perhaps Sherbanenko can be considered an illusionist because his pieces seem simple, but the there is so much thought put into the construction of his garments and tedious pattern making that makes you appreciate the line and aesthetic so much more. Many of the garments were constructed out of just two pieces of fabric, there were jackets with two-piece sleeves, there were hidden pockets and subtle design details that had such an impact in the collection.

The fabric choices were sublime. Italian boucle, melton wool, destroyed and waxed calf were just a few of the selections that composed the beautifully edited collection.

This collection seems very promising and demonstrates the value of construction and design.



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by the way

I’m so intrigued! This issue is not focusing on a particular designer, but on a theme surrounding “new forces”.

Be sure to stalk your local newstands/magazine shops for nº25!



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Men's RTW FW2010: Rick, YSL, Dries, Givenchy

Rick Owens

Rick Owens classed it up a little bit for fall 2010 presenting a more tailored and luxurious line up of looks. This is probably his most luxurious men’s collection yet, with the inclusion of fur and alligator skin. Owens toyed with the idea of classically constructed garments with beautifully tailored sports coats and overcoats, but at the same time infusing the Rick Owens spirit we are so familiar with (asymmetry, architectural draping). It was nice to see that the collecton was not heavy on the black side. The taupe and neutral tones were quite refreshing (he played around with it a little for ss2010 as well) and sat nicely between the blacks and whites. This collection was by far stronger than ss2010. Rick cannot be pigeon-held into this gothic aesthetic, because clearly he can do so much more, and this polished collection proves it.

YSL

Stefano Pilati kept it slim and lean for fw2010. However he left room to make some interesting sartorial choices for those who were a little more experimental. For those who who are fans of classic french tailoring, they could opt for the double breasted jacket. For those who want to break away from the norm of menswear, they could go for the low-cut, sleeveless jumpsuit. Pilati did a good job of covering his bases in terms of the YSL man. There was something in there for everyone. Also each of the looks could have easily been broken down and worn interchangeably and it still would have made a good outfit.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten’s collection this season was not too thrilling. It may have to do with the fact that it was a tad reminiscent of Raf Simon’s men’s spring 2010 collection. The same ideas carried through in Dries’ collection. The belts over the outerwear idea is something we’ve definitely seen before. Besides that, the prints that were used (we all know Van Noten is an aficionado of prints) were not strong. In fact, they were quite distracting. It was more so the pairing of different textiles that were off and did not enhance the collection. Van Noten managed to squeeze many different design elements into this collection, and the inclusion of piping was one that could have been left out. On the bright side, the cuts of the garments were quite nice, because they were weren’t too tailored and structured, but kept a sharp silhouette at the same time.

Givenchy

Showing probably one of the strongest collections thus far this season, Riccardo Tisci kept it very clean and crisp, while ignoring certain seasonal rules. For instance, sandals for fall winter is unheard of, but this is Riccardo’s world and we’re just living in it. The pieces were tailored, minimal, and classic. While other designers this season focused on the cinching of waists to create shape, Tisci focused on the proportion of of the looks, keeping it very slim on the bottom and natural up top. The dinner jackets, the crisp shirts, all of it was impeccable. Simplicity wet a long way for Tisci. There was no need for any extra tid-bits here and there. Riccardo Tisci made a strong statement, with a well executed vision.



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exactly.

It’s freezing in NYC right now and I’ve been perpetually searching for heavy knits that I can hibernate in. Ideally I would like a winter arsenal of simple, heavy gauge cashmere or wool sweaters— nothing frumpy, no cable knit, in black, grey, oatmeal. I’ve managed to snatch up a couple this season, but it is no easy feat finding the perfect sweater. Someone must have heard my winter blues because I just stumbled upon a line that is the epitome of what I need in my life right now.

A Moment In, a capsule line spearheaded by Anne Chapelle (CEO of Ann Demuelemeester & Haider Ackermann), has some of the most beautiful knit wear. They’re simple pieces with simple shapes that can be layered up to the high heavens. I love that they are heavy and have lean silhouettes, no frump! They’re the perfect melange between cozy and chic, with nothing trendy about them. Also, I can’t help but detect traces of Ann D somewhere in there.  The verdict is in:  A Moment In knits make for classic winter wardrobe staples.



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hazy.

Last season Christopher Kane unleashed gorillas and now he’s dropping bombs. At the same time, Rick Owens is letting there be fog for DRKSHDW. Something in the water?

Graphic tees are obviously nothing new for Kane (and judging by the hoopla over his gorilla series, we’ll probably see more of it). But Rick doing print? The man keeps us on our toes. It’s something that he is delving into a bit more—both for his mainline and DRKSHDW. Even though print is something we haven’t really seen before from him, his identity is still embedded in these shirts. He can deviate a little bit without compromising his aesthetic.

The DRKSHDW version of the cloud/smoke tee offers a bit more than Christopher Kane’s, aesthetically speaking. More so because the shape of Rick’s version is quite nice. The free-form/kaftan esque shape takes the mundaneness out of wearing a regular ol’ tee-shirt.

images: luisa via roma



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the un[bare]able lightness of being.

Bruno Pieter’s collection for ss2010 was one that resonated with me back in september. The stark simplicity of it has a placating effect on the viewer, and perhaps it has the same effect on the wearer. There is an uncanny duality between vulnerability and strength.  The nude in the color palatte gives the feeling of being bare and exposed—being stripped of any security blanket or façades. The Belgian-born deviated from the things that have now recently defined today’s fashion (peaked shoulders, drop crotch, et al). Pieters did not allow trends to define this collection, but allowed his intuition, without the muddling of what else is happening in fashion, to conjure up such demure pieces.

I love the look of nude or pale colors upon fair skin— it echoes purity. But, not everyone agrees. You hear the same thing fair-complected women usually say: “this color washes me out.” So it was a daring move on Pieters’ part to make nude a dominant aspect of his collection, but an intelligent move.



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I am so proud and happy for My little William! Will was just recently signed to Boss Models in New York. This image is part of his show package for fw2010. He will be a force to be reckoned with.

I am so proud and happy for My little William!

Will was just recently signed to Boss Models in New York. This image is part of his show package for fw2010. He will be a force to be reckoned with.



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Encens Nº25 arrivera le mois prochain.

Anyone who knows me, is well aware of the fact that I am  a die-hard fan of Encens and Samuel and Sybille, the founders. I cannot wait until Nº25 comes out. They sent this preview out a little while ago. Looks promising but we’re left in suspense because we don’t know which designer the issue is dedicated to. Encens always surrounds one particular designers every each issue. Past designers included Margiela, Raf Simons, and most recently Dries Van Noten for Nº24. I can’t wait to see who they have up next.

I’m seriously in love with everything about Encens.

Make sure to get Nº25 when it comes out in February. They really are collectibles.



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because the night belongs to lovers.

photos: Meghan Farrell

Wednesday night, my dearest Meghan (MF) and I went to see Patti Smith in concert. It was the best way to cap off 2009. Such an amazing experience…more like surreal. Not sure if I can even articulate it. Her voice was incredible and she’s a real crowd mover. The woman even did a cover of Billie Jean!

I’ve been a fan of Patti’s for quite some time, not only for her music, but for her rock, andgrogynous style. Combat boots and a long blazer (usually by Ann Demuelemeester because we all know Patti’s a dear friend and muse of Ann D’s) always give off an air badass that comes so naturally to her. Even at over 60 years old, she still got it. Still talented and style savvy as ever.

Slightly disheveled, black and white, tough, oversized, perfection. She has such an uncontrived, effortless approach to how she wears clothing. And she’s not trying to please anyone. She’s an icon in both music and style. Must be nice having Ann Demeulemeester as one of your biggest fans, just saying.



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