Dries Van Noten
It’s no secret that Dries Van noten is a mastermind when it comes to prints and color. He’s not afraid to throw 3 different patterns/prints in all different hues into one look. In this particular collection, they all worked in a weird and unexpected way. Van Noten bridged the idea of leisure and downtime with the “man-on-the-go” attitude. This juxtaposition is illustrated through his use of pajama-like prints and soft fabrics. The whole idea of a pajama motif is a bit reminscent of Yohji’s aw09 collection when Yohji actually incorporated pajamas and boxers as part of the looks.
Van Noten’s overall collection seemed to have been backed with an anecdote or some sort of story in mind. One that, perhaps, could only involve a Parisian or Italian man. Something to the effect of: A [rather handsome] man needs to meet his lover at some posh bistro for lunch, but lost track of time and threw a blazer over his silk pajamas and stuffed a pocket square in his breast pocket, ran his fingers through his hair, tussled it a bit and ran out the door. The looks are just that effortless. I personally prefer the the color volume knob to pretty much be switched to off, however Van Noten has yet again used his means of manipulation to get me to appeciate the role color plays in fashion.
images via: men.style.com
Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus
Rei Kawakubo definitely made sure she had all her bases covered for her customers because there was something in this collection for everyone…from the overtly eccentric to the simple, tailoring and drop-crotch enthusiast. Kawakubo unapollogetically packs in every print and color known to man into the looks. However, she never forgot the fact that not all of her customers gravitate towards that aesthetic. The fact that there was a spectrum of looks was much appreciated.
The collection is better when it’s compartmentalized. Kawakubo gives us the option to do so because of the spectrum she has created. The looks that followed a gray/white/black colorstory were more dramatic than the colorful fiasco. There was a certain austerity that came along with those looks. However, the dangling tassle-like accouterments added a slight playfulness, sort of creating a homeostais with the austerity.
If looking at the entire collection as a whole, I can only speak on the silhouette, which stayed pretty consistent throughout. Not close to body, full and a tad boxy, very appropriate.
So much of this collection (mainly the melange of prints and colors) reminds me of Kawakubo’s aw08 collection, where it was basically a regurgatation of tartan (which did not sit well with me). This season, needless to say, is better than the one aforementioned.
images via: wwd.com
