ann demuelemeester
The military motif was very much alive and well in ann’s fall/winter collection (which i’m sort of over, but it did not overwhelm her collection). Her collection was focused, keeping within a tight-knit color palette (blacks of course and muted colors like browns and khaki’s). Her point-of view came across nicely. I loved the accessories: the pocket chains, the pins… those little accents and details really contributed to the overall look.
rick owens
Imagine a troop of prisoners that have been stowed away in some dark, cold abyss for years, just now released into the world seeing daylight for the first time, and you have rick owens’ boys. This season was eery, dark, mysterious, nothing short of a rick owens collection. We’re also seeing something new from owens, in the accessories department. These elk-horn-esque, bold, architectural necklaces, completely plated in gold, adorned rick’s princes of darkness. It was only right that he made that move because, owens is arguably the pioneer in gender-bending, androgynous fashion.
gareth pugh
Gareth’s first venture into menswear seemed to be an easy transition incorporating some of the same elements he uses in his women’s wear. That is in terms of fabrication, patterns, and his abstruse/whimsical vision. This collection was futuristic and I felt there was a subtle element of violence behind it, which really intrigued me. Gareth’s boys and Rick’s boys should play a scrimmage of flag football, with Michelle Lamy as the ref.
Maison Martin Margiela
Am I going to get cut if I say that Margiela’s menswear for fall/winter 09 was depressingly underwhelming?? No? Ok, then it’s safe to say that I was not impressed. I will always love monsieur Margiela, but this collection was not cutting it. It was too casual and I did not feel that it was a cohesive collection. However, I can appreciate the fact that he veered off of the black/monochromatic lane, using a range of (somewhat odd) colors. *sigh* because images of his phenomenal ss09 collection for women will be forever ingrained in my brain, I had high hopes for his fall 09 menswear. I guess I am just going have to sit tight for his women’s aw09.
