je suis amy.

a return to the primitive.

Thu, 04 Mar 2010 20:37:00 -0500

Scholar Mariana Torgovnick, writes on the subject of primitivism and its cultural, and social connotations. In her book Gone Primitive: Savage Intellects, Modern Lives she lays an interesting discourse on primitivism as being this generalized idea that distances the “native” from the “civilized” and yet while there is an obvious distinction between the two, primitivisim perpetually surfaces and posits itself in our modern world. It’s a concept that cannot really be rejected no matter how much we try to advance and develop. How can we dismiss it? This idea of savagery and archaism is often times a great source of inspiration for art, fashion and literature.

In the context of fashion, primitivism is constantly referenced, emphasizing our fascination with it. Rodarte serves as a prime example in the discussion of a primitive aesthetic in fashion. The Mulleavy sisters of are often associated with this tribal, primordial aesthetic through their violent fusion of fabrics and prints. Just the manner in which their garments are constructed connotes savagery.

Primitivism in fashion is also translated in the visual narratives of our magazines

This particular spread from Dazed and Confused (images above), shot by Ben Toms, styled by Katie Shillingford, reiterates the point of constantly returning to the primitive, to the pre-colonial. There is a rejection of the civilized and an embrace of crudity. Primitivism, presents an abstract, alluring, unrefined beauty, which is adeptly captured in this editorial.

Ruminating on Roversi and Rizzo: Another Magazine SS2010

Fri, 26 Feb 2010 21:20:00 -0500

The bleak, stark atmosphere in conjunction with the minimal clothing, sans a plethora of accessories, is what made this editorial stand out in the the spring issue of Another Magazine. Olivier Rizzo styled the shoot, implementing deconstruction and simplicity, subtly exposing the human body. As amazing as the styling and the garments are, I see them merely as accessories to the spread as a whole; they helped tell a narrative. Because the editorial was stripped of so many things that are usually found in other spreads (i.e. some cliché location, an over-stylized, categorical look), it was more open for interpretation.

Albeit I know nothing about photography, the composition grabbed me instantly. The spread was shot by the Renowned Paolo Roversi. The way he was able to adroitly capture and extract certain colors and make them pop against the sea of washed out, murky hues was simply beautiful.

There are editorials that take in too much of the capitalist side of the business, having the model pose a certain way to show a dress in the best way possible, or having her step one foot close to the camera to show off a shoe. While it is true that we are in the business of selling clothes, it is always refreshing to see editorials that uphold a certain level of creativity and artistic expression. This one in particular does just that.

Everything from the harmony of the piece to the content worked beautifully, conjuring up an air of sinisterness— just bewitching and raw.

And perhaps I’m going a little too far and ranting a bit, but I can’t help but approach this with a cultural studies lens, and apply Stuart Hall’s idea of audience reception. People will always have a reaction. We are not simply vessels that passively take in content without feeling some way about it. We see it, we process it, we interpret it. Not only is it a natural instinct to react, it is our responsibility, and this promotes discussion. So this is me reacting. I feel it instinctually, and it is my duty to do so. This is why I started this blog.

Shots that I took at Richard Chai’s show, and photos of...

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 14:27:50 -0500

Shots that I took at Richard Chai’s show, and photos of Ryan and I at brunch just afterwards.

Jeneil Williams in LOVE magazine

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:26:54 -0500

I know we are already aware of her beauty and how stunning the spread is, but I’m just doing a little reminding. Thanks.

NYFW round up [aw2010]: Calvin Klein, A. Wang, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Matthew Ames, Richard Chai Love, Richard Chai [men's]

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 11:52:00 -0500

Calvin Klein

Fresh. Minimal. Simple. Francisco Costa effortlessly personified these words this season. Beautifully tailored jackets and trousers and long-sleeved maxi dresses were just a few of the things that conjured up an air of sophistication and maturity. Keeping the color palette minimal, there was a lot of focus on the lines and silhouettes. This was a clean collection that was beautifully executed, and it was also a reminder of two things: 1) Francisco Costa can do no wrong, and 2) a little goes a long way.

Alexander Wang

Alexander Wang’s collections progressively become more esoteric with each season and cannot be fully digested right away. I find that you have to come back to it after seeing it for the first time and try to unpack it as much as you can, almost dissect it in a way. After doing so, then perhaps you can justly review it and form an opinion.

There was a fusion of nostalgia with intangible ideas wrapped up in Wang’s collection. The nostalgia stemmed from the use of velvet throughout. To me velvet brings me back to childhood and wearing velvet dresses and shoes, and surely many other girls have made similar connections. Velvet is not commonly or easily worked into the every-day wardrobe. It was interesting that Wang made it a focal point of the collection. The inability to grasp certain ideas stemmed from the proportions and silhouettes, and also from certain details here and there. Perhaps it is a matter of going back and studying the collection more closely, but for some reason, I just cannot put my finger on it.

Rodarte

The Mulleavy sisters know their strength and know it well. Every collection they put out seems to be an extension of the last, with their continued display of beautiful layering and interweaving of different prints, fabrics and textures. With so many things going into the collection, it ran the risk of looking like someone’s laundry basket, but these girls artfully marry all of these elements together to beautifully construct these pieces. They are able to take colors and fabrics that have absolutely nothing to do with on another, and have no business being in the same garment, and create a visually stunning, organic symbiosis. What’s also nice is the fact they have softened up quite a bit this season and lessened the grip of the apocalyptic, dark aesthetic they’ve had going on for a while, but not for one second have they abandoned their technique and identity.

Proenza Schouler

The Proenza Schouler girl was not so prim and proper this season. She was a little dark, with a bit of a street mentality. However, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez did not completely sweep the girlishness under the rug, as there were short skirts and babydoll dresses galore. They simply took them and gave them a dark edge with the inclusion of blacks and evergreens. There was something very New York socialite about this collection (which comes at no surprise since the duo’s circle is pretty much made up of them), but more so very NY prep school. McCollough and Hernandez established this motif with their take on the classic varsity jackets and school girl outfits. Their experimentation with proportions might have been the highlight of the collection. The cropped jackets and sweaters were paired interchangeably with both tight, skinny jeans and short skirts, and there were longer coats reaching the hem of the dresses. The prints were playful, and bold and did not in the slightest hinder the collection.

Matthew Ames

Every season, Matthew Ames ups the ante and does something new, all while staying true to the essence of his designs. His use of leather was something that we haven’t seen from him before. He was able to take something as tough as leather and construct pants with a full silhouette, as well as tops with more angular, geometric cuts. Ames has always mastered the art of finding the balance between organic and geometric shapes. He’s also never afraid to use color in a way that most designers could not. Orange and mustard yellow made strong cameos, but what heightened the boldness of these colors was the fact that they appeared in a variety of textures and fabrics. The color palette was quite extensive, ranging from pastels to black, making sure there was something in this collection for everyone. Matthew Ames is always able to challenge himself season after to season and churn out something beautiful each time.

Richard Chai Love

Richard Chai abandoned any and all conventions in fashion and created his own manifesto on how to dress. A classic pea-coat can be worn with casual leggings, a maxi dress can be paired with a dress shirt. There are no holds barred. Through Chai’s collection a message of liberation was imbedded. We don’t have to be confined to banal notions like a day vs. night look. Who cares? There is no wrong or right way to approach fashion, and so the wearer is free to do what she wants. Chai showed looks that could be deconstructed, rearranged, and layered a number of ways. There were pieces that were classic, casual, hard, and soft and they all played off each other nicely. He gave us what we wanted—choices.

Richard Chai

Gentlemen, please take note.

For the men, Chai re-worked classic silhouettes and put a Parisian boy-esque spin on them. It was a quintessential display of effortless, cool. The muted tones, the mixes of blues, the layering all catered to this casual aesthetic that was completely uncontrived. Chai’s strength as a designer is growing exponentially and he has proven himself to be a trusted menswear designer.

photos: style.com & gq.com

new york fashion week, and so it began.

Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:51:00 -0500

Fashion week started on thursday the 11th, but seeing as I had school and suffered a brutal week of 8 am classes, I decided to skip out on the opening ceremonies of it all and delved into it hardcore the next day. So really, day 2 was my day 1. I somehow managed to make my way to the tents and down to Milk Studios in the icy streets in heels, without falling! I’ve had some pretty un-chic moments throughout the seasons, which I will not diverge into, but just know that I’ve come a long way since my first season in heels. I have to gloat in my glory.

Something about the tents rubs me the wrong way sometimes, even though it is undoubtedly a fashion institution. Might be because it’s always swarming with overly done-up fashion students, and the freebies are too big to fit in your bag. But it is important to acknowledge the fact that this is the last season Bryant Park will be home to Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, and so we bid ado. It will be interesting to see how different it will be when Lincoln Center adopts it. I’m more into the whole Milk Studios/off site thing though.

Yigal Azrouel

Azrouel’s (women’s) collection was quite feminine and very wearable. It catered to almost any woman on the age and social spectrum, but it was a hodgepodge of allusions, silhouettes and looks that have been done before. Texture was a very clear motif. There were embellishments, a variety of fabrics and (including a coat, presumably made out of monkey fur, which I admittedly have a strong liking for), and detailing that veered on the sculptural side. As far as color, red made a strong appearance; interspersed throughout a parade of neutral tones. The collection was a medley of all things pretty, but infused with design elements that we are all too familiar with. While it was aesthetically pleasing and undeniably charming, it was a bit difficult to say that it was unique.

Tim Hamilton

The Tim Hamilton man this season, flies under the radar and has this understated coolness about him. He can be seen sitting outside Balthazaar, smoking a cig, charming some girl with conversation about his favorite exhibits at the Gagosian gallery. I like him. Hamilton paired classic styles with a relaxed attitude, and the theme of effortlessness echoed and resonated throughout the collection.

Odyn Vovk

Austin of Odyn Vovk chose a more intimate space for the show this time around, which made it a lot easier to get a sense of the collection and fully recognize the great little details that made the collection what it is. See my fullreview of the collection here. Let me not forget to mention by boy William walked in the show, his second season walking Odyn Vovk!

Other tidbits:

I unfortunately missed the Jeremy Laing presentation, which I was really looking forward to, but that’s what happens when hunger gets the best of you and you think you have time to grab sushi. C’est la vie, I suppose. There’s always next season.

I have to to say, the Fashion Loves Hanuk Exhibition was the highlight of my day (aside from running into Samuel and Sybille of Encens at Tim Hamilton). Such a cute crowd! Of course I had my dearest and fashion week buddy, Ryan in tow. Too bad I did not take any photos to supplement.

what depresses me the most about this fashion week is that I will miss the Matthew Ames show! Quelle horreur! I know it will be stunning, last season I was almost moved to tears. Wish I can witness such an amazing display of talent up-close again.

RIP McQueen

Sat, 13 Feb 2010 18:26:53 -0500

Our beloved Alexander McQueen passed away and put me (and the entire fashion industry) in the most somber of moods. I could not fathom how such a thing could happen and so unexpectedly. Such creativity and immense vitality in his garments. I only hope that we continue to celebrate McQueen and continue to garner inspiration from his work. RIP Mcqueen.

Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons

Sun, 31 Jan 2010 09:38:00 -0500

It is a rarity to find superb craftmanship, where you sincerely feel the artist’s spirit and feel a sense authenticity. Derrick R. Cruz, the mastermind behind the jewelry/accessory line Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons hand-crafts some of the most beautiful accessories, working with a variety of unconventional materials. There aren’t many jewelry designers who would think to create necklaces and bracelets out horse hair, and recycled piano keys, and that is precisely why Cruz is a cut above the rest. Though he creates jewelry (pieces that can be work a multitude of ways), he does not pigeon-hold himself to just that. His line extends to include ashtrays, pins, and even a razor made out of mammoth razor and silver. Not only are the designs striking, but the materials used are precious and quite nostalgic.

There is definitely a certain charm to Black Sheep and Prodigal sons. In some ways, the line cannot even be categorized because to say that they are just accessories is too insignificant. They epitomize the art of craftsmanship and are just visually stunning. They are pieces that cannot just simply sit along side some of other accessories because they are in a realm of their own. The workmanship is superb and Cruz includes small details here and there, giving each piece character.

Odyn Vovk AW2010 preview

Fri, 29 Jan 2010 13:52:57 -0500

Austin Sherbanenko of Odyn Vovk brewed a very smart and well thought out collection that made sense from beginning to end. This seasons’s collection was inspired by the deserts of Abu Dabi/Dubai, which was brilliantly reflected in his color palate. The collection was seamlessly cohesive, but managed to break up the collection into sub-categories and color stories that easily lent themselves to one another. The color palatte including 4 prominent hues: rust, bone, black and army green. They all worked in unison and complimented each other.

The cohesiveness did not just end at the color choices. Sherbanenko strung together various motifs in the actual construction of the garments that added character and established a strong identity. He explored the idea of deconstruction to give his garments a rustic, worn in look.

Perhaps Sherbanenko can be considered an illusionist because his pieces seem simple, but the there is so much thought put into the construction of his garments and tedious pattern making that makes you appreciate the line and aesthetic so much more. Many of the garments were constructed out of just two pieces of fabric, there were jackets with two-piece sleeves, there were hidden pockets and subtle design details that had such an impact in the collection.

The fabric choices were sublime. Italian boucle, melton wool, destroyed and waxed calf were just a few of the selections that composed the beautifully edited collection.

This collection seems very promising and demonstrates the value of construction and design.

by the way

Sun, 24 Jan 2010 09:40:12 -0500

I’m so intrigued! This issue is not focusing on a particular designer, but on a theme surrounding “new forces”.

Be sure to stalk your local newstands/magazine shops for nº25!

Men's RTW FW2010: Rick, YSL, Dries, Givenchy

Sun, 24 Jan 2010 09:35:44 -0500

Rick Owens

Rick Owens classed it up a little bit for fall 2010 presenting a more tailored and luxurious line up of looks. This is probably his most luxurious men’s collection yet, with the inclusion of fur and alligator skin. Owens toyed with the idea of classically constructed garments with beautifully tailored sports coats and overcoats, but at the same time infusing the Rick Owens spirit we are so familiar with (asymmetry, architectural draping). It was nice to see that the collecton was not heavy on the black side. The taupe and neutral tones were quite refreshing (he played around with it a little for ss2010 as well) and sat nicely between the blacks and whites. This collection was by far stronger than ss2010. Rick cannot be pigeon-held into this gothic aesthetic, because clearly he can do so much more, and this polished collection proves it.

YSL

Stefano Pilati kept it slim and lean for fw2010. However he left room to make some interesting sartorial choices for those who were a little more experimental. For those who who are fans of classic french tailoring, they could opt for the double breasted jacket. For those who want to break away from the norm of menswear, they could go for the low-cut, sleeveless jumpsuit. Pilati did a good job of covering his bases in terms of the YSL man. There was something in there for everyone. Also each of the looks could have easily been broken down and worn interchangeably and it still would have made a good outfit.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten’s collection this season was not too thrilling. It may have to do with the fact that it was a tad reminiscent of Raf Simon’s men’s spring 2010 collection. The same ideas carried through in Dries’ collection. The belts over the outerwear idea is something we’ve definitely seen before. Besides that, the prints that were used (we all know Van Noten is an aficionado of prints) were not strong. In fact, they were quite distracting. It was more so the pairing of different textiles that were off and did not enhance the collection. Van Noten managed to squeeze many different design elements into this collection, and the inclusion of piping was one that could have been left out. On the bright side, the cuts of the garments were quite nice, because they were weren’t too tailored and structured, but kept a sharp silhouette at the same time.

Givenchy

Showing probably one of the strongest collections thus far this season, Riccardo Tisci kept it very clean and crisp, while ignoring certain seasonal rules. For instance, sandals for fall winter is unheard of, but this is Riccardo’s world and we’re just living in it. The pieces were tailored, minimal, and classic. While other designers this season focused on the cinching of waists to create shape, Tisci focused on the proportion of of the looks, keeping it very slim on the bottom and natural up top. The dinner jackets, the crisp shirts, all of it was impeccable. Simplicity wet a long way for Tisci. There was no need for any extra tid-bits here and there. Riccardo Tisci made a strong statement, with a well executed vision.

exactly.

Sun, 10 Jan 2010 00:41:34 -0500

It’s freezing in NYC right now and I’ve been perpetually searching for heavy knits that I can hibernate in. Ideally I would like a winter arsenal of simple, heavy gauge cashmere or wool sweaters— nothing frumpy, no cable knit, in black, grey, oatmeal. I’ve managed to snatch up a couple this season, but it is no easy feat finding the perfect sweater. Someone must have heard my winter blues because I just stumbled upon a line that is the epitome of what I need in my life right now.

A Moment In, a capsule line spearheaded by Anne Chapelle (CEO of Ann Demuelemeester & Haider Ackermann), has some of the most beautiful knit wear. They’re simple pieces with simple shapes that can be layered up to the high heavens. I love that they are heavy and have lean silhouettes, no frump! They’re the perfect melange between cozy and chic, with nothing trendy about them. Also, I can’t help but detect traces of Ann D somewhere in there. The verdict is in: A Moment In knits make for classic winter wardrobe staples.

hazy.

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 18:19:00 -0500

Last season Christopher Kane unleashed gorillas and now he’s dropping bombs. At the same time, Rick Owens is letting there be fog for DRKSHDW. Something in the water?

Graphic tees are obviously nothing new for Kane (and judging by the hoopla over his gorilla series, we’ll probably see more of it). But Rick doing print? The man keeps us on our toes. It’s something that he is delving into a bit more—both for his mainline and DRKSHDW. Even though print is something we haven’t really seen before from him, his identity is still embedded in these shirts. He can deviate a little bit without compromising his aesthetic.

The DRKSHDW version of the cloud/smoke tee offers a bit more than Christopher Kane’s, aesthetically speaking. More so because the shape of Rick’s version is quite nice. The free-form/kaftan esque shape takes the mundaneness out of wearing a regular ol’ tee-shirt.

images: luisa via roma

the un[bare]able lightness of being.

Tue, 05 Jan 2010 13:45:59 -0500

Bruno Pieter’s collection for ss2010 was one that resonated with me back in september. The stark simplicity of it has a placating effect on the viewer, and perhaps it has the same effect on the wearer. There is an uncanny duality between vulnerability and strength. The nude in the color palatte gives the feeling of being bare and exposed—being stripped of any security blanket or façades. The Belgian-born deviated from the things that have now recently defined today’s fashion (peaked shoulders, drop crotch, et al). Pieters did not allow trends to define this collection, but allowed his intuition, without the muddling of what else is happening in fashion, to conjure up such demure pieces.

I love the look of nude or pale colors upon fair skin— it echoes purity. But, not everyone agrees. You hear the same thing fair-complected women usually say: “this color washes me out.” So it was a daring move on Pieters’ part to make nude a dominant aspect of his collection, but an intelligent move.

I am so proud and happy for My little William! Will was just...

Tue, 05 Jan 2010 09:17:31 -0500

I am so proud and happy for My little William!

Will was just recently signed to Boss Models in New York. This image is part of his show package for fw2010. He will be a force to be reckoned with.

Encens Nº25 arrivera le mois prochain.

Sun, 03 Jan 2010 08:39:02 -0500

Anyone who knows me, is well aware of the fact that I am a die-hard fan of Encens and Samuel and Sybille, the founders. I cannot wait until Nº25 comes out. They sent this preview out a little while ago. Looks promising but we’re left in suspense because we don’t know which designer the issue is dedicated to. Encens always surrounds one particular designers every each issue. Past designers included Margiela, Raf Simons, and most recently Dries Van Noten for Nº24. I can’t wait to see who they have up next.

I’m seriously in love with everything about Encens.

Make sure to get Nº25 when it comes out in February. They really are collectibles.

because the night belongs to lovers.

Fri, 01 Jan 2010 11:24:00 -0500

photos: Meghan Farrell

Wednesday night, my dearest Meghan (MF) and I went to see Patti Smith in concert. It was the best way to cap off 2009. Such an amazing experience…more like surreal. Not sure if I can even articulate it. Her voice was incredible and she’s a real crowd mover. The woman even did a cover of Billie Jean!

I’ve been a fan of Patti’s for quite some time, not only for her music, but for her rock, andgrogynous style. Combat boots and a long blazer (usually by Ann Demuelemeester because we all know Patti’s a dear friend and muse of Ann D’s) always give off an air badass that comes so naturally to her. Even at over 60 years old, she still got it. Still talented and style savvy as ever.

Slightly disheveled, black and white, tough, oversized, perfection. She has such an uncontrived, effortless approach to how she wears clothing. And she’s not trying to please anyone. She’s an icon in both music and style. Must be nice having Ann Demeulemeester as one of your biggest fans, just saying.

image from Matthew Ames’ journal

Thu, 31 Dec 2009 21:40:01 -0500

image from Matthew Ames’ journal

faith in fashion.

Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:34:52 -0500

It seems that religious motifs are becoming increasingly acceptable as an element in fashion. In this spread for the aw2009 issue of WONDERLAND magazine, the traditional “hijab” worn by women in Islamic culture, was re-interpreted to fit the mood of the editorial—connoting a hidden identity. The hijab, in conjunction with the other amazing pieces (Rick, Junya, for instance) is the icing on the striking editorial cake. As the concept of religion in fashion continues to manifest itself in the pages of magazines, it is no stranger to the runway. Rick Owens spooled some holy thread in his men’s fw2009 and women’s ss2009 collections with his inclusion of the priest/priestess hat.

Rick Owens men’s aw09/women’s ss09

It’s interesting to see religious garments, or garments that evoke religion, be taken out of their context and stripped of their symbolic significance for editorial/aesthetic purposes. Is it in a way some mild, tiny, eency-weency form of scrilege? Those who are super, freakishly religious may think so. But, honestly speaking religious/cultural garbs are some of the most beautiful pieces of clothing and easily lend themselves to the fashion world.

The long silhouette in a Priest’s robe, the beautiful drapes and asymmetry in the garb of a Buddhist monk—these are elements that designers have been inspired by and emulated for quite some time. Using religion and culture as points of references takes away some of the superficiality of fashion and gives a bit of meaning behind a garment; it provides depth to an over all look.

young Burmese monk photographed by Ralph Ledergerber/ Julius ss2009 (look 36)

images:

style.com

supreme model managemnet blog

Men's RTW FW2010 is around the corner...

Sun, 27 Dec 2009 09:05:01 -0500

I’ll be doing my reviews as per usual for the mens’ collections. Last season Tatsuro Horikawa of Julius reigned supreme presenting one strong look after another. I’m really interested to see how he follows up that collection for fw2010.

And without a doubt, I’m in anticipation for Rick Owens. It’s clear that he stays true to his aesthetic, but he throws a curve ball every now and then, like when he got soft and pretty on us for women’s ss2010.

stay tuned for my thoughts.