a return to the primitive.

(dazed and confused)

Scholar Mariana Torgovnick, writes on the subject of primitivism and its cultural, and social connotations. In her book Gone Primitive: Savage Intellects, Modern Lives she lays an interesting discourse on primitivism as being this generalized idea that distances the “native” from the “civilized” and yet while there is an obvious distinction between the two, primitivisim perpetually surfaces and posits itself in our modern world. It’s a concept that cannot really be rejected no matter how much we try to advance and develop. How can we dismiss it? This idea of savagery and archaism is often times a great source of inspiration for art, fashion and literature.

In the context of fashion, primitivism is constantly referenced, emphasizing our fascination with it. Rodarte serves as a prime example in the discussion of a primitive aesthetic in fashion. The Mulleavy sisters of are often associated with this tribal, primordial aesthetic through their violent fusion of fabrics and prints. Just the manner in which their garments are constructed connotes savagery.

Primitivism in fashion is also translated in the visual narratives of our magazines

This particular spread from Dazed and Confused (images above), shot by Ben Toms, styled by Katie Shillingford, reiterates the point of constantly returning to the primitive, to the pre-colonial. There is a rejection of the civilized and an embrace of crudity. Primitivism, presents an abstract, alluring, unrefined beauty, which is adeptly captured in this editorial.



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komakino.

I just came across this menswear line, Komakino, (not to be confused with the store in Canada) through an interview Dazed Digital did with the designers. The design duo consists of Jin Kim, from South Korea and Federico Capalbo from Italy, but they are now based in London.  They’ve only been around for four seasons, but you can see the progression they have made in such a short time. Some of their previous collections included big graphics and big shirts, a departure from their autumn/winter 09 collection, which is a lot more focused and refined. The color palatte for fall is comprised of one dominant color: black (though there are accents of white sprinkled throughout). Deconstruction and texture are embedded into the collection and I also get a utalitarian vibe from it. Probably because of the copious amounts of buckles and straps in the collection.

All in all, I’m into this line and I gravitate towards it— this collection in particular. It seems that Kim and Capalbo are constantly evolving and honing their ideas, making their line more directional. I’ll be interested to see how their next collection comes out.

images via: Komakino



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